Thursday, March 31, 2016

Flea Market Lost and Found.....

     We (well... Joe) had heard about a flea market that took place in Catania every Sunday morning, so we (well... Joe) decided to look for it this past Sunday, which of course happened to be Easter.  Exact details of the location of the market were murky, and we weren't sure if it would take place on Easter Sunday, if in fact there was a flea market at all.

   Easter Sunday dawned sunny and warm, with church bells clanging throughout the city.  Since the location of the flea market was supposed to be very close to where we were staying, we (well... you know who) decided to give it a try, and if it wasn't there, then it was a beautiful morning for a walk anyway.  The basic directions were to walk across Piazza del Duomo, through the Porta Uzeda arch, and straight ahead into the park, and we would see the flea market, if it was up and running on Easter Sunday.  We walked through the arch and into the park...
     .....no flea market.  So, we decided that since we were out on this beautiful morning we would walk along the ring road that separates the city of Catania from the port.  The road follows a long series or arches that support the railroad tracks, and allow passage to various port access points. These arches are called archi della Marina, literally arches of the Marina.  Apparently until as recently as the 1950s the sea came right up to this area, before the Port of Catania was created.....

     As we walked along the road, we glanced through the arches toward the port, and what did we see...?  The flea market in full swing.  We walked up and down the market, enjoying looking at Catania's antiques and schlock.  Joe found a neat little collectible to buy, Chris fell in love with an antique gilded wooden cherub, but she wouldn't spring for the 60 euros for it.....


     As with most things on this trip, the outing ended as a pleasant surprise after some initial disappointment. 

Wednesday, March 30, 2016

The Fishing (and Strolling) is Good in Giardini-Naxos.....

     On one of our last days at the Lemon Tree, we did what we do most days when the weather is nice... we drove down to Giardini-Naxos and walked along the harbor.  There are over two miles of sidewalk that follow along the seaside, great for a stroll any time of day.....


     
     On this particular day, the seas were quite rough, but even so we saw a fishing boat chug slowly out of the harbor.  The boat was a couple of hundred yards out from shore, bobbing up and down like a cork in the rough seas, when the men on board started pulling in their lines.  We snapped a few photos, including one showing a rather large fish entering the boat.....





   
     A good day for a stroll in the harbor, and apparently a good day to gather the bounty of the sea.....

A Beautiful and Historic Mt. Etna Winery....

     On one of our last days in the Mt. Etna region of Sicily, we visited a small but historic winery named Terra Costantino.  It is owned and operated by the father and son team of Dino and Fabio Costantino.  A friend of ours in the New York City area (and whose cousin owns the B&B we stayed at in Catania... no, you can't make this stuff up) is the US importer for their wines.  Here are Dino and Fabio.....


     Shame on us, because you should always call ahead when visiting a winery in Sicily, we arrived at Terra Costantino unannounced.  We introduced ourselves, and although they were very busy, they took the time to show us around their vineyard, and what a story it has to tell.  There is an old stone "Cantina" on the property, where wine was made over two hundred years ago.....




     They explained how field workers would gather grapes in wicker-type baskets and then dump the grapes through an opening into the building, where they would be crushed by foot.....



     After the crushing, the big cakes of "must" were further crushed by this ancient wooden press, which they said was several hundred years old.....   In the last two photos, Fabio is standing in the area where the grapes were crushed by foot.....






     The juice was put into wooden barrels and carried by donkeys to storage facilities on the property.  Rainwater was collected off the roof of the building where it ran into this well.....  Donkeys were led through an opening in the lower level to a trough where they could drink, before carrying their precious cargo through this arch to the "donkey road", as Fabio called it......




     Dino and Fabio are building a new Cantina and tasting room, and to create a driveway to reach it, they have had to cut through a section of the vineyard, which provides a wonderful viticultural cross-section. You can see there is only about one meter of soil before reaching volcanic stone.  The roots of the vines struggle down through this stone for vitality, and that is what gives the wines their particular flavors and aromas.....
   
     We purchased two bottles of wine, an Etna Rosso and a Rosato, or Rose'  Both were excellent, and you can see the image of the old wooden wine press on the bottle of Etna Rosso.  The other bottle shows a flower that is particular to this area of Sicily.....

     It was an honor to meet Dino and Fabio Costantino.  They are very proud of their property, their history, and their wines.  They didn't have to take time to show us around, but they did, and for that we are grateful. Our visit concluded with hugs and kisses, invitations to return, and promises that we would.  Yet another episode showing the grace, passion, and charm of the people of this fascinating island.....

Tuesday, March 29, 2016

Something's Fishy in Catania !

The fish market in Catania is one of the largest in the country.  The dealers shout constantly advertising their wares...its colorful, hectic, and a true Sicilian experience.




be careful where you step !

beautiful items...not even sure what most of them are !




this guy lost his head !








There is also a large farmer's market attached to the fish market.  Vendors sell fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and all sorts of condiments...




smoked, grilled artichokes and peppers...yum !!



fantastic produce...
meats and cheeses galore...





some of the best tasting cauliflower ever...
the fennel is huge !

There were several guys wandering around selling huge bunches of parsley...1 euro...what a deal !



 This is an old meat market sign...


you can just see the "M" of macelleria...butcher shop

All in all, a great way to spend a morning in Catania...

Captivating Catania...

Catania is the second largest city in Sicily, and we stayed at a lovely B&B here for 3 nights.    The Elephant is the lava sculpture over the fountain in Piazza Duomo.   Most likely a prehistoric sculpture that was reforged in the Byzantine Era, it appears to be a talisman that was reputedly powerful enough to protect the city from enemies and to keep away misfortune, plagues, or natural calamities.


We stayed right near the Duomo...in Al Duomo B&B...we could see the piazza from our balcony...



Joe is captive in our B&B !
the beautiful Duomo...





quite a light fixture !
the little red awnings belong to our B&B





We also had to be tourists for a bit and take the "fun train"...




nothing like being serenaded on a fun train !

Yes...a fun time was had by all !!