Sunday, February 28, 2016

Agrigento...the Valley of the Temples

At one time the fourth-largest city in the known world, Agrigento, or Akragas as it was then known, is home to Sicily's most impressive Greek ruins. Situated about 3km below the modern city, the Unesco-listed Valley of the Temples is one of the most mesmerizing sites in the Mediterranean, boasting the best-preserved Doric temples outside Greece. 

This was our third trip to see the temples...and it was every bit as amazing as the others.  Luckily, the weather this time was much better than last year ... we have more pictures available on our past blog: homegirlchris2.blogspot.com.

This time, Joe did a video that you can access here...it's about 2 minutes long and is well worth a visit.... if the link isn't visible, hover your cursor in the space below and it should appear.....make sure to turn on your sound !

                   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAAHAvi57_0
              

It was a lovely day in a beautiful World Heritage site...






Chris as an almond blossom....










                                                                     Joe as a fig leaf....


Friday, February 26, 2016

You Can't Make This Stuff Up.....

      The warmth, friendliness, and generosity of the people of Sicily never fails to amaze us.  This story begins with a visit to a carpenter's workshop.  We had seen his sign the day before as we were driving out of town for a day trip.  The morning after our day trip, we walked over to his shop, just ten minutes from our B&B.  We said buon giorno, explained that we were Americans on vacation, and that Joe was a carpenter.  He warmed up quickly, although he spoke no English.  We took interest in the project he was working on, a large walnut cabinet.  He gave us his card, and asked that we send him a postcard when we return to the States.  After assuring him that we would, and with warm thanks all around, off we went.

       As we were leaving Agrigento yesterday to come to The Lemon Tree, we happened to pass his shop.  As we slowed the car to wave goodbye, he ran out and insisted that we park.  We did a typical Sicilian 45 degree with-flashers-on parking maneuver, and stepped out to greet him.  It was like we were old friends!  He said we couldn't leave town without having a coffee with him!  He closed his shop (actually he left the doors open and put a small strip of wood across the door opening, we don't know who he thought that would stop, but that's another story).

     After some gesturing and pointing, we said to him in Italian... "you drive", so he climbed into the driver's seat, Joe jumped in the back, and off we went through the jumble of streets that is Agrigento's Old Town.  We arrived at his favorite place, a snack bar/pastry/coffee shop.  He ordered Joe a cappuccino, he had a coffee, we all ate almond cookies.  We talked a little more, and just before we left, the person behind the counter handed us a beautifully wrapped package, which as it turns out were two cannoli that he had ordered for us as a gift.  How sweet was that!?  After hugs and kisses, we got in the car and headed for Taormina and The Lemon Tree; he hitched a ride back to his shop with friends.

     The only photo we have of the whole experience is one Joe took with his phone in the coffee shop, Chris munching on an almond cookie, our carpenter friend Nino with his arm around her!?
                                 

     What a great experience, and no, you can't make this stuff up!

   

A Great Drive on Itinerary Five.....

     There was a tourist information booklet in our B&B in Agrigento detailing all there is to see and do in the area.  Beyond the amazing sights to see in the city itself, the booklet listed several half-day and full-day itineraries away from town.  We wanted to do a scenic drive one day, and preferred the mountains to the coast, so we decided on Itinerary 5.  It took us north from Agrigento on a loop through the mountain towns of Raffadali, Santa Elisabetta, Sant'Angelo Muxaro, San Biagio Platani, and Casteltermini, where we turned south to head back to Agrigento.

   The drive itself was spectacular.  The tiny roads follow the course of ancient footpaths from town to town. Each bend in the road offers a more amazing panorama than the one before.  The camera just doesn't capture the true beauty of the place.  And it certainly doesn't capture the scent of Sicily in Spring - almond blossoms, wild flowers in bloom, and smoke from countless fires burning olive branches and grape vine clippings.

     Here are a few photos.....   Click on any photo to enlarge.....







      Fico d'India, also known as prickly pear, grows wild along Sicilian roads.....
               

     The itinerary suggested that just outside of Santa Elisabetta there was an ancient castle in ruin, and you could take a small side road to see it.  We found the side road and started down it.  Passing the cemetery was probably a clue that we shouldn't go any farther, but of course we did.  The road quickly narrowed and deteriorated to the point that we couldn't go any further.  We had to back up a couple of hundred feet just to find a spot wide enough to turn around.  Here's a photo of the good part of the road.  needless to say, we didn't see the castle.....
   
     We continued on to Sant'Angelo Muxaro, a beautiful little hilltown which also has an ancient tomb where gold and silver artifacts have been found.  Some of them are in the British Museum.  The tomb has many mythological legends surrounding it, involving Greek and lesser known gods.  The tomb is only accessible on foot, over rugged terrain, so we opted out.  Here's a photos of the town from a distance.....

     We did drive up into the town, where there was a small weekly market just packing up.  We snapped a photo of this guy's truck, which was proudly carrying the banner "Truck Of The Year 1992". Wasn't that last century..... ??
   
     The next village on our itinerary was San Biagio Platani.  It is mostly known for the unusual arches it puts up on the main street for Easter.  The arches are made of reeds, willow, asparagus, rosemary, corn and bread.  We drove through town, but the arches weren't up, so we "borrowed" a photo.....

     The last town on the itinerary was Casteltermini.  We didn't drive through this town, as it was approaching cocktail time and we were still an hour away from our B&B.  But we did get a couple of photos of the town from a distance.....


     What a fantastic drive in the Sicilian countryside.  It is such an amazing island, you could do these drives for weeks and not get tired of the scenery.  And each town has at least a couple of snack bars and family-run trattorias where you can get an excellent and inexpensive meal.

     One thing you don't see in Sicily are exotic sports cars, like Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, etc., which are fairly commonly seen in the north of Italy.  We did see an unusual Lamborghini though.....

   
     A Sicilian itinerary, a full tank, and a sense of adventure make for an unforgettable day!

Wednesday, February 24, 2016

We Love a Parade, and Two Are Better Than One.....



   
     The almond trees are in bloom, that means there must be a festival in Agrigento, complete with a parade.  Make that two parades, one on Saturday featuring traditional marching bands and folk musicians and dancers;  and one on Sunday, featuring the wonderful Sicilian Carretti, or horse-drawn carts.

     The parade each day began near our B&B at piazza Pirandello and traveled along via Atenea to piazza Cavour at the east end of the old town.

     Here is a link to a video of one of the bands warming up in piazza Pirandello.....if the link is not visible, hover your cursor in the space below and it should appear.....

     https://youtu.be/6gLaqfCBH9k
   
     Parades are funny here in Sicily... not only are the streets very narrow, but the spectators don't stand in one place to watch, they move along with the parade, and sometimes even move in the opposite direction of the parade.  Here are some photos.....

         





                                                 







                                                                               
The winning folk group from Licata

     Here is a link to a video of a traditional Sicilian folk group in the parade.  The flute-like instrument is a friscalettu.  If the link is not visible, hover your cursor in the link below and it should appear.....

               http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaN1gBbDRmA

      Now we get to Sunday and the Sicilian carts in parade.  Actually, most of the musical groups that were in the Saturday parade were in Sunday's parade also.  There were many carts, each one more decorated than the one before.  There was even a special policeman for the "zoo parade".  The miniature cart with a baby pulled by the miniature horse was adorable.  Here are some photos.....
















                                                       
                                                       

     Here is a photo of a strange man with one of the horse-drawn carts.....



     Here is a link to a video of a few of the carts.  If the link is not visible, hover your cursor in the space below and it should appear.....

                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHjksb0u5vY
                   
     The parades and shows afterwards were an absolute joy.  Yes, the almond blossom has real flower power in these parts!


Tuesday, February 23, 2016

Adventures in Agrigento...

     One of our favorite things to do is to set off in the morning and walk the narrow streets, alleys, and stairways of these old Sicilian cities, just to see what discovery or adventure is around the next corner.  Sometimes we have a destination, sometimes we just wander.  Here are some photos of things we encountered the first day in Agrigento.....

     The Church of Santa Maria of the Greeks (Santa Maria dei Greci) had an exhibit of modern paintings alongside ancient Greek columns...



                                         


     We passed the open door of a workshop with the sounds and smells of carpentry in the air.  We of course invited ourselves in and talked with the 82-year-old man who was restoring two old wooden doors.  He didn't want his picture taken, but he said it was OK to take photos of his shop.....

   
     You've heard of the Stairway to Heaven, this one goes the other way..... It leads down to, well... the Church of Purgatory.  The church had a contemporary photo exhibit going on... and an angel...

   
   

    We saw these four displays within twenty-five feet of each other.  Who knows what it all means....


                                               

     We were impressed with this Nike-wearing nun on a mobile phone, guarding the entrance to Monastero Santo Spirito in Agrigento, where there was a wonderful exhibit of Bernini's last sculpture, done in 1680.  The walls of the Monastery have deep relief plaster sculptures.

                                           






                                                                       
                                                 

     We loved the eroded facade and great color of this old Baroque building.....
 
    The Cathedral of San Gerlando in Agrigento is essentially closed to the public due to concerns about the stability of the earth under it's north foundations, which are on the edge of a cliff.  The front door and facade are completely closed, but there are shoes and sneakers placed on the wide steps.  You can apparently adopt a shoe for 10 euros with the money going to a restoration and stabilization fund.....
   
     This "Staircase of the Arts" was just a bit bizarre..... And a beautiful staircase with a cute restaurant......  


                                                                 
   
Finally, this view of the Mediterranean from one of the city's main piazzas.....
                                               
   
And that's just from one day's wanderings in this amazing ancient city of Agrigento!